TROLLØYPA

• Troll-0

  TROLLØYPA – DAY 0

  THE PLAN

  ^22-02-11

  The plan for the next adventure is ready – I am going to ski the southern part of Trolløypa (or a slight variation of it ; ) through the southern part of Rondane, Ringebu and Øyer mountains.
  Just have to get some maps, book huts, set up waypoints and routes on my GPS, and – most importantly – confirm my start date; should get going within the next couple of days, depending on the weather forcast. Wish me luck!

  Day 1:
  train to Ringebu, bus or taxi to Trabelia (start of skiing tracks), ski to Veslefjellbua (ca. 9km)

  Day 2:
  ski to Jammerdalsbu (ca. 19km)

  Day 3:
  ski to Vetåbu (ca. 18km)

  Day 4:
  ski to Djupslia (ca. 16km)

  Day 5:
  ski to Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell (ca. 26km)

  Day 6:
  ski to Nordsæter or Lillehammer (ca. 22km)
  bus and train back home

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• Troll-1

  TROLLØYPA – DAY 1

  from Trabelia to Veslefjellbua

  ^22-02-16

  Finally, I’m on the move! Checked weather forecasts and hut booking status (whether there is other people already booked to stay) all day yesterday and couldn’t quite decide… then, late in the evening, I finally made up my mind: I will start the next morning. I was all packed and ready to go from before; so I just booked huts and train tickets and set my alarm clock to get up early – BUT not early enough… when the alarm woke me at 7:45, I realised I had set it wrong by one hour; no chance to reach the train at 8.

  But, lucklily, there was another option 1,5 hours later; only had to change from train to bus at Lillehammer. By 13:00 I arrived at Ringebu and asked for a taxi for the first hill up; got one half an hour later, and was dropped off at Trabelia Hyttegrend&Camping before 14:00.

  

  The recently prepared løype takes me up towards Venabu, going a couple of hundred meters away but parallel with the road, though an area with scattered private huts.

  A small pass (Grønnskaret?) just after the little lake Grønnskardtjønnet gives me a first taste of ‘høyfjell’ – bare mountains.

  The sun tries to fight through here and then, but mainly it’s just white-ish grey.

  

  After having passed another cabin area and a huge hotel, the freshly prepared skiing tracks end. From there I’m following just man-made tracks where a couple of skiers went earlier today.

  I cross the main road – don’t even have to take off skis, it’s just snow-/icy enough – and continue following the single skiing tracks… no other markings. I begin to wonder if I have misunderstood something; this route should be marked all winter. Half a kilometer further, I can relax: a nice and clear line of ‘kvister’ is starting from the signpost at Myrkroken.

  

  And not long after I can see my goal for the day appear on the hill: Veslefjellbua.

  

  I get it, and start the routine: change to dry clothes and warm extra clothes, get the wood oven going to heat up, collect fresh snow in a huge pot and put it on the oven to melt for water, fix a hot chocolate for energi, and then check out the rest of the cabin while it slowly gets warm.

  

  And there is some really pleasant surprises waiting for me. Usually the food store includes mostly ‘lovelies’ like fish soup and meat balls in cans… not the widest choice for a vegetarian. But here there is beans, and even chili sin carne, AND chocolate pudding and vanilla sauce. Heaven!

  

  And then – just as I settle down on the sofa to read – I hear some noise outside… what’s that?

  

  It’s the løypemaskin, rattrack, or whatever you call it – I will have freshly prepped tracks tomorrow (even if only for the first kilometer or so, before I need to branch off).

  So, all in all: good day, good start.

  About 9-10km skied today.

  ---
• Troll-2

  TROLLØYPA – DAY 2

  from Veslefjellbua to Jammerdalsbu

  ^22-02-17

  Woke up to a beautiful sunrise and got to see the snowy mountain plateau in all its sparkling glory.

  

  Then the løypemaskin passed by one more time; and this time it’s continuing on my route according to the allknowing internet! So, seems like I do get a freshly prepped track almost all the way to tonight’s goal, Jammerdalsbu.

  

  Cleaning up the cabin while having breakfast, then I’m good to go.

  

  

  Saying good-bye to great new Veslefjellbua, and forward against the sun:

  

  On the fresh tracks I make good progess, not before long I’m at the first waypoint, Dørfallet, where I cross a little river (without seeing it).

  

  I cross an area with some small crocked trees, all gorgeosly dressed up with frost.

  

  Some others have crossed here as well… wonder who that was – pretty big paws.

  

  There is another river to cross; I can see the summer bridge some 50m off to the side… but now the tracks just go straight across the river.

  I also meet a fellow human skier, who turns back at where the prepped tracks suddenly end. He tells me it always does, and the løypemaskin from the next valley up should do the rest of the stretch – but they havn’t (yet).

  

  So I get to make my own tracks for the rest of the day. Luckily from here on the route is very well ‘kvistet’ (marked with sticks), so no uncertainty where to go.

  

  Aftee a while I turn at a signpost, and the sticks lead me up into a wide valley – not long to go now.

  

  And then there is Jammerdalsbu; I just need to dig my way in.

  

  There is actually 2 larger and a tiny little hut. So of course I dig out all of them to check it out. There is the main cabin, the tiny one is the water pump (not working now though), and the back-up hut with a big fire wood store and a small living space. I decide to stay at the last one, because the small space should heat up more quickly and still has everything that I need.

  

  And after my usual arrival routine, it’s time to relax and read.

  Beautiful day, much more sun than anticipated; and great way to start out with both a bit of prepped tracks and untouched wilderness.

  Approximately 19km skied today.

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• Troll-3

  TROLLØYPA – DAY 3

  from Jammerdalsbu to Vetåbu

  ^22-02-18

  Had a good night’s sleep, although it was almost too warm first, and then got to be quite cool towards the morning – but luckily I had another blanket ready.

  Woke up to a fantastic sunrise with full moon setting over distant glittering mountains.

  

  So now it’s up and over this mountain plateau next:

  

  Leaving Jammerdalsbu (I stayed in the cabin to the left), and following the kvisted løype…

  

  …no tracks whatsoever in front of me. Just a line of marking sticks, and the sun.

  

  The first soft downhill, not too far from the cabin, is just about steep enough so I can test and train my telemark swings. Perfect snow conditions with a couple of centimetres of powder on top of a carrying but still soft layer of snow.

  

  Sooner than I thought, I reach a sheep farmer’s cabin, also open to everyone as emergency shelter – Saubu. A look on the map explains: there is actually two ‘Saubu’; this one by a ‘dramatic’ river, and another one some 5 or so kilometers on.

  

  No humans or animals in sight, but this fox(?) is leading the way with their tracks; very meticulously pee-marking every sing post.

  

  Then, just as the going gets harder, because the wind-blown snow that has gathered in this bushy area is softer, and I break through some 30cm in places even on skis, I suddenly hear a noise. A snow scooter is approaching from behind! The guy stops and we have a chat – he’s a ‘mountain ranger’ from Fjelloppsynet, looking out for reindeer and lynx (gaupe in nowegian). There should be up to 2000 reindeer in the wider area, but so far neither of us have seen any today. Nor have we seen gaupe, a wild cat(?) with paw prints as large as a grown man’s hand but only four toes (I learn).

  

  After wishing each other a ‘god tur’, he drives on. And I can use the scooter tracks not to sink too far into the snow. 😉

  

  I can’t stop stopping to take pictures – it’s just so gorgeous, wide sweeping sparkling landscape. Not as good in the photos.

  But for one ‘sight’ I definitely have to stop: an open little river! All water in moors, lakes and also rivers is deeply frozen this time of year; but this one obviously has just enough depth and current that the snow over caved in. Not a hinder, though, both the snow scooter and I crossed it savely just 3m next to this:

  

  Then I arrive at the ‘second’ Saubu, and decide to have my second lunchbreak sheltered from wind and in the sun on it’s doorstep.

  

  Continuing on, the scooter tracks bend off deeper into the mountains, while I have to follow the rivervalley downwards to find my next cabin, Vetåbu. Luckily I can use the tracks of a woman that I met just before my break, who came up from there and is going in the opposite direction to my route.

  

  On the mainly slight downhill and following in the other skier’s tracks, I make my way quite quickly; before long, I can spot some roofs between the bushes and meet another scooter track that had been going up to the cabin.

  

  After inspecting both the ‘old’ and the ‘new’ as well as the toilet and the fire wood cabins, I decide I’ll stay in the ‘new’ one. It’s still a bit warm from yesterday’s guests, and just has a nicer layout with smaller living room.

  And a peek into the food store makes my already hungry mouth water: there is crisps/chips, and a whole assortment of sweets, as well as vanilla sauce for sale (in addition to the usual stuff of course).

  

  This day couldn’t have been any better! About 18km in perfect snow and sunshine through a stunning mountain panorama.

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• Troll-4

  TROLLØYPA – DAY 4

  from Vetåbu to Djupslia

  ^22-02-19

  Starting into another gloriously sunny day!

  

  From Vetåbu on there is scooter tracks as well as the usual stick markers. Great to just speed on against the sun over the moors!

  

  Quite soon I get to a series of sæter – summer grazing areas and their cabins; the first of them is Nord-Goppollen.

  

  Then I cross moose tracks several times. ..

  

  …which only makes sense, since I get into lightly forested area.

  

  After some more moors, crossing a snow covered road, and some more cabins, I meet a prepped løype. Soon after its start, I have my lunchbreak in the wind shadow of a little shed overlooking a (frozen and snowcovered) lake.

  

  Then it’s really speeding on, on this highway of a løype:

  

  I have to cross the river Golloppåa, but luckily there is a bridge.

  

  No wonder this feels like highway, when there is even road signs for the european motorway E6!

  

  So all too soon I arrive at my next cabin. I consider to climb the next hill for a view, or get down the 500m (and 50m height difference) or so to the lake Djupen… but the snow is sooo deep and loose here in the woods, and I can start to feel the last day’s effort in my body – so I just can’t be asked 😉

  

  Instead I just axe some fire wood, get the fire going, and relax by the wood oven with reading.

  Then it’s pancakes for dinner (in addition to tomato soup and cookies); slightly improvised menue as the food store here is quite depleted (of vegetarian main dishes).

  

  All in all, very happy with my speedy 16+km today!

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• Troll-5

  TROLLØYPA – DAY 5

  from Djupslia to Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell

  ^22-02-20

  Getting up early (again), since it’s a long way to my next place to stay, and the weather forecast is nicest for the morning. That way I get to see another lovely sunrise.

  

  Hurrying the clean-up to get out… manage to leave by 9:30 – which is half an hour later than planned; but still more than enough time.

  

  The route starts as it ended yesterday – wide, well prepared tracks; mostly across moor and lightly forested areas.

  

  I need to cross the local stream again, again there is a bridge. The trees in the humid and shady environment next to the water are extra white and beautiful with frost.

  

  After passing several ‘setra’ (originally summer farming huts, now probably mostly used as private holiday cabins), the route is climbing again. Slighty and not long, but just enough to get (mostly) out of the moor-shrubbery and ‘forest’. Beautiful distant high mountain views again.

  

  I reach the highest point just next to the tracks, marked with a large stone column. It’s a namless top… but still feels like an achievement.

  

  Then it’s back to more moors, and also more and more people. It’s Sunday, and I’m getting within daytrip-distance from Lillehammer and Hafjell (at least without big pack and with faster skis than mine).

  Actually crazy the difference to yesterday, where I met no one all day (except 2 cars and a person by their cabin a 100m off the tracks).

  

  

  Still beautiful snow and sunlight.

  

  I have my lunch break in the sun outside the Lienden cafe.

  

  Then I get so bored with the prepped løype and everyone overtaking me, that I decide to do a ‘shortcut’… slightly less in kilometers but it’s a while since it’s been groomed; no new pass after the last snowfall a week ago or so. Not really a time-wise shortcut; and definitely no shortcut experience-wise! Exhausting going, sinking in about 15-20cm with each step… but I feel like on an expedition, see all the animal tracks, and how the wind has blown the snow into soft lines.

  

  About 4km later, I’m back on track(s) – and almost at my goal.

  

  Arriving at Hornsjø mountain hotel, I was sooo keen to get in and into the sauna, that I didn’t even take a picture from the outside.

  And it was worth it! Nothing better than a warm shower; then a long and very hot sauna to relax in; and after that a cool beer before getting served a three-course dinner – luxury!

  

  Approximately 26 tiring kilometers today; but got my energy revived for a last day tomorrow.

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• Troll-6

  TROLLØYPA – DAY 6

  from Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell to Nordseter / Lillehammer

  ^22-02-21

  Last day!

  It has snowed some 2-3cm during the night, and the weather forecast now is not quite as nice as it promised some days ago.

  

  But the fresh soft snow makes for good glide, and the sun is trying to fight through; just enough to make the snow glow and some vague shadows give more contrast to the landscape.

  

  After crossing more moors (=swamps – sorry for my bad English) and then a short uphill, the first big drop in today’s long descent starts. This means also beautiful views opening up across the light forest and lakes.

  

  I pass by a toilet and ‘gapahuk’ (open shelter), which would be the perfect lunchspot; but decide it’s too early, and rather press on.

  

  Then I shortly touch the original Trolløypa again. I had left it at some point yesterday, to make my detour to Hornsjø. But here it’s continuing further east, to Sjusjøen; whereas I have decided that my final goal is Lillehammer train station.

  

  Some more mostly downhill tracks, and I’m at the nordic wintersport eldorado Nordseter. Big parking lot, many cabins, and various circular skiing tracks.

  

  This sign even asks me if I wanted to ski on to Oslo… hm, well, maybe another time 😉

  

  I also pass Nordseter’s mountain chapel. Looks interesting, would love to see the inside… but in good protestantic tradition, I’m pretty sure it’s locked. And the door is blocked with half a meter of snow, that noone has shovelled off yet.

  

  Then it’s more downhill, and through forest – so the løype here is much more narrow…

  

  …until I decide it’s time for lunch and find this little treestump on a local hill top overlooking a little lake (or moor?).

  

  And then it’s – surprise! – more downhill!

  Until I ski into the olympic stadion, to roaring applause (by myself… in my head 😉 and almost get lost within all the loops and bridges and things. Luckily I manage to stay on the safe side of the guys training for biathlon shooting.

  

  Then it’s a last downhill toward Lillehammer centre, over some fields…

  

  …and past the ski jump.

  

  The tracks here have not been prepared in some days, but there’s actually a lot of snow, and surprisingly soft – very easy to ski down.

  Until I have to finally take off my skis at this road underpass – about 870m from Lillehammer train station.

  

  Approximately 22km today; A LOT of them downhill.

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