along the Haute Route de Pyrenees
towards the Mediterranean
back to front page: Ines hiking
This summer´s plan is set: In a few days I will be heading off to Barcelona, and then on into the Pyrenees. The plan is to start from Hospital de Vielha, where I had to stop last year, and then go east – see how far I`ll get within the 3 weeks that I have available. My goal is to reach Arles-sur-Tech… but as usual the plan is fluid ; )
I will aim to post some updates underway, depending on coverage and time.
- HRP´23 – DAY 01
Starting from Hospital de Vielha
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
the journey begins (symbolic picture.. not my plane) 
a different Arc de Triomphe this time… Barcelona! 
from the bus: mountains getting closer! 
bus stop ‘tunel s’ 
Refugi de Conangeles 
camp day 1
- HRP´23 – DAY 02
Onwards to Lac deth Cap deth Port
23-07-0x
—- more to come! —-
weather forecast not looking good… (image – thanks meteoblue) 
entering the outer national park border 
lots of flowers! 
…and lots of water (thankfully) 
crossing some lovely pine forest / boulder field 
hopefully a dog?! 
Refugi de Restanca 
camp day 2
- HRP´23 – DAY 03
From Lac deth Cap deth Port to Bosc de Locampo
23-07-0x
—- more to come! —-
lovely morning! 
tent packed up, leave no trace; ready to go! 
entering national park 
lunch break by the river 
Refugi de Colomers 
some trail race (… Val d’Aran?) about to happen 
abandoned mine 
mud?!! in the pyrenees??! 
pitched tent just before the rain!
- HRP´23 – DAY 04
From Bosc de Locampo to Refugi Airoto-Grácia
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
leaving my campspot in Bósc de Lócampo 
climbing high above the valley 
crossing the road c-28 by Port de la Bonaigua 
up towards Coll de l’ Estany Pudo (2337m asl) 
Estany de Garrabea – the ‘most beautiful lake in the Pyrenees’ acording to local fisherman 
little lake above Plans d’ Isavarre 
find the path / stoneman? 
spot the orange dot – Refugi Airoto-Grácia 
crossing the Riuet d’ Airoto… good luck picking up water here! 
inside Refugi Airoto-Grácia 
my campsite
- HRP´23 – DAY 05
From Refugi Airoto-Grácia to Bassa de Sobriu
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
climbing above Estany d’ Airoto up to Collada del Clot de Moredo (2430m asl) 
and down towards the hamlet Bordes de Moredo 
be aware of the beast! (none visible though…) 
nicky built farmer’s path 
village Alós d’ Isil 
after a short roadwalk reaching the Pont de la Pina (1315m asl) 
and up the next valley past some well kept but disused(?) farm buildings 
set up bivouac near Bassa de Sobriu (approx. 1910m asl) 
sunset
- HRP´23 – DAY 06
From Bassa de Sobriu to Refugi Mont Roig ‘Enric Pujol’
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
starting the day with a steep ascent next to a waterfall 
not only a pile of bones, but a few meters on: this! 
already well past the first pass, Coll de Cornella (2482m asl) – just about visible to the right I think- with a very steep descent, and on the way up again 
Col Curiós (2455m asl) 
more little lakes, and more ascent… towards Coll de Calberante (2608m asl) 
on the other side: Estany Major de la Gallina 
and more lakes… but the Refugi is already in sight! 
lunch and swimming break first! 
Refugi Mont Roig ‘Enric Pujol’
- HRP´23 – DAY 07
From Refugi Mont Roig to Camping Bordes de Graus
23-07-0x
—- more to come! —-
starting the day with a very steep downhill (photo looking back up) 
over some lovely polished rock 
past the obligatory waterfall 
the a bit of forest road 
and by 11:00 to a well earned refreshment at Camping Masia Bordes de Graus 
got a ride into Tavascan 
got some pizza 
got some choices to make… 
and see the local sights! 
before hitching a ride back to the camping
- HRP´23 – DAY 08
From Camping Bordes de Graus to Pont de Boavi
23-07-0x
—- more to come! —-
Camping Graus… now leaving for good. 
following the valley put again to Tavascan, with some lovely old farm buildings 
and some ‘tricky’ passages on the rock face above the river 
then up another valley on a nice easy path 
have to stop for a lunch break with river bath – amazing! 
before arriving at Ponte Boavi, where I find a hidden bivouac spot
- HRP´23 – DAY 09
From Ponte Boavi to Etang de la Soucarrane
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
leaving my secluded bivouc 
a little late for breakfast… 
oh dear, spottet a dear! (or is it an Izard??) 
lost the path, had to cross the river here 
looking back on the valley of the Riu de Sellente opening up 
snow measure: zero centimetres of snow! 
free grazing mountain horses on the way up towards Col de Sellente (2487m asl) 
rocky down towards Estany de Baborte 
Refugi Baborte / Cinquetenari (approx. 2380m asl) 
inside the refugi 
lunch break by the lake… a bit too windy/chilly for a swim 
steep down through dry pine forrest 
Cabane de Basello 
the cabane’s guarding dragon posing for photographs 
lovely flowers 
first sign for Andorra – that’s where I’m going! 
«salt wall» by Cabane de Boet (approx. 1880m asl) 
lazy cows by Plat de lo Mercat, on the way up to Port de Boet (2511m asl) 
have entered France now… and ‘of course’ it’s cloudy 😉 looking down to Cabane de la Soucarrane 
sheep herd by my bivouc site at Etang de la Soucarrane (approx. 2300m asl)
- HRP´23 – DAY 10
From Etang de la Soucarrane to El Serrat / Ordino
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
morning sun on the bivouc 
following the river… steep down 
looking down further out the valley, before going up again to Port du Rat (2539m asl) 
and in the next valley: Andorra – looking back up towards Port du Rat 
yes, Andorra. 
differnet type of cows here 
mmh! @Borda de la Coma 
be aware of the fish??! 😉 
lunch break at Estany del Mig 
and onwards! past a famous(?) spring 
down down down down down 
jumped on a bus in El Serrat, and wups: Staying at hotel Santa Barbara in Ordino 
and get treated with fresh food
- HRP´23 – DAY 11
From Ordino / bus stop Val d’Incles to Refugi de Juclar
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
morning view from my room 
amazing bus network in Andorra! 
interchange in Andorra la Vella 
climbing ‘mountain’ seen from the bus 
getting off at Val d’ Incles 
after some km on an asphalt road (luckily closed for general traffic), an information center with amazingly nice and helpful staff 
lovely path further up the valley 
exciting.. can I squeeze through? (this is the path!) 
weather station 
overrun from the dammed lake? 
and a last steep climb 
to Refugi de Juclar, where I camp with several others 
very windy, but nice evening clouds
- HRP´23 – DAY 12
From Refugi de Juclar to L’Hospitalet pres de l’Andorre
23-07-0x
—- more text to come! —-
goodbye to the Refugi at approx. 2310m asl 
past the lakes; quite low water still here also 
and up 
Col de l’Albe (2539m asl) and the border to France in sight 
France! again! 
rocky 
second breakfast break past the forth lake of today 
water plants 
pluviometre (?) 
for the first time: long views opening up 
lovely grassy downhill 
photogenix white cows 
dam of the last lake before Hospitalet; considered to camp here… but it’s too windy 
under the pipeline 
danger! 
Hospitalet! (not aaaas ugly as everyone says) 
local superheroine 
at the municipal campgroung
- HRP´23 – DAY 13
From Hospitalet to near Lac de Lanoux
23-07-17
—- more text to come! —-
a little out-and-back early morning train trip to Ax les Thermes for shopping 
and up towards Refuge de Besines 
gate to the pasture of on Jasse Bessatell around 1800m asl 
millions of grasshoppers / cicada (which is this? are they the same??) 
some old war? or mining?? structures 
Refuge des Besines (2104m asl) 
and further up 
the last snow!! unfortunately I don’t have to cross… 
Col de la Coume d’ Aniel (2487m asl) 
‘plateau’ with Pic Carlit in the distance 
camp by a little lake at 2235m asl, with Lac de Lanloux in the backdrop 11,8km, 1150m ascent, and 335m descent in approx. 5,5h.
- HRP´23 – DAY 14
From near Lac de Lanoux to Estany de la Pradella
23-07-18
—- more text to come! —-
goodbye to my little lake (camp site), and view back up to yesterday’s col 
more nice potential campsites (or was it alien landing circles?) 
Cabane de Rouzet 
bridge past the Portella de la Grava (2434m asl) 
Valle de la Grave 
potential bathing spots? I wait for the big lake… 
Lac des Boillouses – the first dammed lake with normal water level! 
at Refuge des Bouillouses (approx. 2000m asl) 
towards Cabane de l’etang de la Pradella 
don’t make a fire in the fireplace!!! 
camp by Estany de la Pradella (approx. 1960m asl) Today an easy 13,6km, 310m ascent, and 575m descent in approx. 3,75h.
- HRP´23 – DAY 15
From Estany de la Pradella to Cabane de l’Orry
23-07-19
—- more text to come! —-
leaving ‘my’ lac 
test: are you a cow? 
oh, should have brought skis! 
‘lovely’ Superbolquère (approx. 1800m asl) 
super Escargau aux raisins 
a bit of road walk 
Egilse Santa Eulalia in old Bolquère 
it’s always X-mas in the Mairie de Bolquère 
and they have sad bears!! 
how to translate that road name?! 
over the fields towards La Cabanasse (hatschi!) 
entering La Cabanasse (approx. 1500m asl) 
and finally uphill again! 
camp by Cabane de l’Orry (approx. 1800m asl) A hot and long 24,2km with 790m ascent and 930m descent in approx. 7h.
- HRP´23 – DAY 16
From Cabane de l’Orry to the upper Val de l’ Alemany
23-07-20
—- more text to come! —-
Cabane de l’Orry 
near Cabana de Aixeques (1680m asl) 
uo towards another col 
Col Mitja (2367m asl) 
and down to Refuge du Ras de la Carança (1831m asl) 
lunchbreak by the cool of the river 
and on over lovely meadows 
ruins of a cabane 
and up to another col – Col des Pal (2204m asl) 
past Refuge de l’ Alemany (1968m asl) 
and a bit further up along Ribera de l’ Alemany, to camp before it disappears around 2150m asl 18,9km, 1480m ascent and 1175m descent in approx. 7,5h.
- HRP´23 – DAY 17
From Val de l’ Alemay to Maison Forrestièr de Mariallies
23-07-21
—- more text to come! —-
up to another col – La Portella (2410m asl) 
border stone …and bad weather in Spain? 
lovely ‘ridge’ walk along the border, interrupted by a washed out (but dry) river bed 
Refuge de la Porteille de Rotja 
changing between grassy and rocky ‘ridge’ 
mystical mist… but unfortunately no long views 
smiling rock showing the way 👋 
and someone left their heart on the trail 
horses in the mist 
perfect timing for a comfortable lunch break at Collada des Roques Blanches (2252m asl)! (…if it wasn’t for the rather cold wind and mist) 
just before Refuge de Pla Guillem, running away down into France from the Spanish thunder storm rolling in over the Canigó massiv 
Maison Forrestièr de Mariallies (1718m asl) 
dinner in a basic but comfy atmosphere 21,7km, 600m ascent, 1015m descent, approx. 6h.
- HRP´23 – DAY 18
From Maison Forrestièr de Mariallies to Refuge des Cortalets
23-07-22
—- more text to come! —-
packing up in the maison forestière 
leaving in early morning light and coolness 
choices to make… although little man points right, I go left 
well made path along the GR10 ‘detour’ around the Pic 
beautiful views and rocks 
Refuge de Bonne Aigues – guess what, it has a fountain with good water! 
and back at the main route… 
down towards the lake… where has it gone?! 
even the cows are hot and lazy now 
camp near Refuge des Cortalets (approx. 2160m asl) 16,2km, 1075m ascent, 655m descent and approx. 6h.
- HRP´23 – DAY 19
From Refuge des Cortalets to Maison Forestièr de l’ Estanyol
23-07-23
—- more text to come! —-
good weather for the final ascent to the catalanes sacred mountain 
Pic Canigó (2785m asl) 
a view of the mediterranean sea? 
and then back down again… 
looking back… finally enjoying this 😉 
bits of scrambling down 
and well deserved coffee and cake, back at Refuge des Cortalets 
goodbye Cortalets! 
past a crashed airplane 
more gates and rocks and views 
friendly cow has let me pass, but is a bit shy posing for a photograph 
not much water in La Lentitia… but finally somewhere to wash up! 
some bolder fields to cross 
dropping in at Cabane du Pinatell (approx. 1700m asl), but deciding to carry on 
camp by Maison forestièr de l’ Estanyol (approx. 1500m asl) 18km, 830m ascent and 1470m descent (incl. up and down the Pic), approx. 7,75h.
- HRP´23 – DAY 20
From Maison Forestièr de l’ Estanyol to Arles-sur-Tech
23-07-24
—- more text to come! —-
Maison Forestièr de l’ Estanyol 
mist and sun fighting 
good path through first beech, now pine forest 
reaching the last pass – Col de la Cirère (1731m asl) 
sea of clouds on the ‘other’ side 
sheep trying to hide and/or stay cool 
disused mining builings with great graffiti 
wind measure?! 
more ruins 
café at ‘Batera’ 
the Gite Refuge de Batère (approx. 1460m asl) 
more downhill 
yes, this is the way!! 
ruined Refuge / Station des Vigourats (890m asl) 
only the trees hold up the boulders from blocking the way. thanks! 
detour (with 120m added ascent) to a Dolmen very cool path! 
more lovely, but very dry forest 
getting closer to civilisation 
the unspectacular end. 
Abbaye in Arles 
shopping? 
installed at the final camping 17,5km with 450m of ascent and a whopping 1600m descent in 5,25hours.
- HRP´23 – DAY 21
Travel day – from Arles to Barcelona
23-07-25
—- more to come! —-
leaving festive Arles 
1h20 and 1€ later, the bus has taken me to Perpignan 
sightseeing the old (Le Castillet, 14th century), 
the sleeping beauties (King Sancho de Majorca, in Catedral de Sant Joan Baptista de Perpinyà, 14th century), 
and the new (Théâtre Archipelago by Jean Nouvel 2011) 
(and Hôtel de l’Agglomération Perpignan Méditerranée by Dominique Perrault 2009) 
before returning to the station for the TGV to Barcelona
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Ines hiking 