CAPE WRATH TRAIL, SCOTLAND
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- CWT – day 18
Travelling day – from Durness to Edinburgh
2022-04-08
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the bay at low tide – photo from the bus 
into Edinburg – photo from the train 
‘sightseeing’ in Edinburgh 
Done hiking.
Flight back home tomorrow morning.
- CWT – day 17
From Cape Wrath to Durness
2022-04-07
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sunrise behind the cliffs at Cape Wrath 
still stormy weather, but beautiful light 
back on the gravel road 
more spectacular cliff views 
still in the military zone 
what??! 
big waves due to the wind 
next rain-/sleet-shower coming in 
along the sea shore 
‘bridge to civilisation’ and the main tarmac road; hitchhiking into Durness 
hostel for the night in Durness Approx. 25 mostly gravel-road-kilometers today (totalling in 373,5km from Glenfinnan to Cape Wrath and back to ‘civilisation’).
- CWT – day 16
From Strathchailleach to Cape Wrath
2022-04-06
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leaving Strathchailleach bothy under big and stormy rain / sleet clouds 
difficult rivers to cross 
over bog and more bog, looking back at Sandwood bay 
crossing the boundary to the military zone; no red flags flying – meaning no firing going on 
cliffs in the fog 
following this valley over even more bog 
finally, the gravel road! and the lighthouse in the distance!! 
Cape wrath lighthouse – made it! 
fog horn on the sea cliffs, no more land to hike northwards on 😉 
well deserved hot sugary tea at the Ozone Café Approx. 9,5 boggy pathless and rainy kilometers today (totalling in 348,5km hiked to reach the cape).
- CWT – day 15
From Old School in Inshegra to Strathchailleach bothy
2022-04-05
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leaving Old School 
resupply shopping at London Stores 
curious young cow 
beautiful views of the west coast 
goth pony 
approaching Sandwood Bay 
the fantastic dunes at Sandwood bay 
Sandwood bay 
hiking along the beach 
river to cross 
and up on the other side 
Strathchailleach bothy (pronounce that!!) 
bunks at Strathchailleach bothy 
‘art’ at Strathchailleach bothy Approx. 18,2 km today (totalling in 339,0 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 14
From Glendhu to Old School in Inshegra
2022-04-04
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leaving Glendhu 
water everywhere 
into the fog 
down to Achfary 
take care of Rudolph! 
Stack Lodge 
bog and more bog… …pitsch-patsch 
biiig river to cross 
boathouse giving shelter from the rain 
police station in Rhiconich 
daphodiles along the road towards Kinlochbervie 
Old School restaurant and rooms Approx. 34.1 km today (totalling in 320,8 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 13
From Inchnadamph to Glendhu bothy
2022-04-03
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cozy shepherd’s cabin at Inchnadamph Lodge 
shelter on the way up (didn’t test 😉 
dry feet crossing with stepping stones by Loch Fleodach Coire 
weather getting worse near the top of Bealach na h-Uidhe (approx. 620m asl) 
the valley of river Amhainn an Loch Bhig 
approaching Glencoul 
big waterfalls 
break at Glencoul bothy 
and up again, looking back at Loch Glencoul 
Loch Glendhu Loch Glendhu 
huge bolders along the sea shore 
crossing the river Amhainn a Ghlinne Dhubh 
Glendhu bothy Approx. 20,9 km today (totalling in 286,7 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 12
From upper River Oykel to Inchnadamph
2022-04-02
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camp site in the morning sun 
view upriver from camp site 
up towards the snow 
yes, it’s cold! 
near the bealach, looking back 
and down the other side 
Approx. 13,3km today (totalling in 265,8 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 11
From Schoolhouse bothy to upper River Oykel
2022-04-01
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leaving the bothy in snowfall 
crossing River Einig 
beware of the killer shrimp! 
tea break and further planning at Oykel Bridge hotel 
past some more curious – and hungry – cows with their calves 
seeking shelter from the rain for a lunch break in an open fisherman’s cabin by the River Oykel 
continueing along river Oykel 
Loch Ailsh 
Benmore Lodge 
campsite on the shore of the upper River Oykel Approx. 25 km today (totalling in 252,5 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 10
From Ullapool to Schoolhouse bothy
2022-03-31
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full (vegetarian) Scottish breakfast 
Ullapool ‘highstreet’, getting resupplies 
my hotel, the Ferry Boat Inn 
spring 😉 
past the quarrry 
along Loch Achall 
boat house by Loch Achall 
curious cattle 
snow storm intermezzo 
break at Knockdamph bothy 
wind farm in the far distance east 
arrived at Schoolhouse bothy 
Schoolhouse bothy Approx. 25,9 km today (totalling in 227,5 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 09
From Shenavall bothy to Inverlael / Ullapool
2022-03-30
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ready to go from Shenavall bothy 
looking back at Shenavall bothy while climbing 
vast, beautiful plateau 
sheep 
down into the valley – ‘forest’ 
reached / crossing the road A832 
lunch break by a small stream 
sudden snowstorm snowstorm 
and sunny again by Loch an Tiompain 
lovely old stone wall 
massive estate building complex and medows at Auchlunachan (?) 
arrived in Ullapool 
hotel with a bath 🙂 Approx. 19 km today (totalling in 201,6 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 08
From Kinlochewe to Shenavall bothy
2022-03-29
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campsite at Kinlochewe caravan and motorhome club 
breakfast at the service station café 
«Europe and Scotland making it work together» – yeah! 
river Abhainn Bruachaig 
traditional building 
‘modern’ building 
down to Loch an Nid 
beach at north end of Loch an Nid, with dramatic backdrop 
perfect campsite, but I continue on 
almost there, Loch na Sealga in background 
Shenavall bothy Approx. 26,9 km today (totalling in 182,6 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 07
From Coire Fionnaraich bothy to Kinlochewe
2022-03-28
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‘stoneman’ near the path up the valley 
Bealach Ban (~550m asl) 
and down again 
Ling Hut 
third breakfast – break in ruins near Ling Hut 
lake and boat house by Ling Hut 
did not feed (they weren’t there…) 
and up in lovely valley with steep mountainsides 
crossing the river Allt a’ Choire Dhuibh Mhoir over stepping stones 
most rocky terrain seen so far 
Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair 
tempted for a swim, but no time 😉 
amazing landscape and long views west 
through Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve, crossing river Allt Coire Ruadh-staca; all pathless… hard, slow going! 
finally back on path 
approaching Kinlochewe 
hotel fully booked and everything else still closed for the season; opening 1.april – ha-ha. Approx. 29,3 km today; plus probably a few more winding one, while pathfinding on the pathless part of the route (totalling in 155,7 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 06
From camp near Lochan Fuara to Fionnaraich bothy
2022-03-27
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camp site by Lochan Fuara 
view down onto train approachong Strathcarron station 
crossing the railroad at Strathcarron station 
Strathcarron Hotel and restaurant 
lovely local beer 
bit of roadwalk 
Coire Fionnaraig bothy 
‘my’ room at the bothy Approx. 13,7 km today (totalling in 126,4 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 05
From camp near Loch na Leitreach to camp between Lochan Fuara
2022-03-26
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bridge across river Elchaig 
sheep near Carnach farm 
Iron Lodge 
towards the Bealach 
Maol Bhuide bothy and Loch Cruoshie 
inside Maol Bhuide bothy 
beach at east end of Loch Calavie 
old wire bridge (and new concrete one) 
Bendronaig Lodge bothy 
river Uisge Dhubh (black water) 
sunset over camp on the south side between the two Lochan Fuara 
clear starry sky Approx. 24 km today (totalling in 112,7 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 04
From camp a little past the highest point on CWT (Bealach Coire Mhalagain) to near Loch na Leitreach
2022-03-25
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mountain camp site 
undecicive weather 
River Allt Undalain 
Shiel Bridge old schoolhouse 
Kintail, beach of Loch Duich 
Kintail crafts – shop and café 
along river Abhainn Chonaig 
up, up! 
Bealach na Sròine 
Falls of Glomach Falls of Glomach 
safely back down 
campsite by river Elchaig, near Loch na Leitreach 
wet feet Approx. 22,7 km today (totalling in 88,7 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 03
From Barrisdale campsite to past the highest point on CWT – Bealach Coire Mhalagain
2022-03-24
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Barrisdale bothy 
camp site at Barrisdale estate 
‘jungle’ 
coffee & weather forecast at the (closed) Teahouse 
hunting stand / emergency bivouac (not used;) 
first snow 
more snow 
down a good bit, soon ready to camp Approx. 21,5 km today (totalling in 66,0 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 02
From Glendessary to Barrisdale campsite
2022-03-23
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campsite 
leaving Glendessary woods 
a bit boggy… 
from the Bealach 
looking down to the bay by Sourlies bothy 
frogs everywhere! 
Sourlies bothy 
low tide ‘path’ along the shore 
deer at the beach 
Scotland has rolled out the green carpet for me 😉 
signs of spring 
looking back down the steep pathless uphill 
back on 4-wheel-drive track 
Barrisdale bothy and campsite in the distance 
the White House at Barrisdale estate Approx. 22,4 km today (totalling in 44,5 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 01
From Glenfinnan to Glen Dessary / past A’ Chuil bothy
2022-03-22
Early-ish start from Fort Williams. Weather seems lovely again!
view from my room at Bank Street Lodge hotel Unfortunately I don’t have time to see more of the town, I need to run for the bus that’s replacing the steam train this week. And I am the only passenger on a big bus, no one else travelling this morning!
I couldn’t see anything of the surroundings yesterday evening, since I arrived after nightfall. But the distant views this morning reassure me – it seems there’s only some very few patches of snow left on the tops:
view north-west from Fort William station And the walk starts!
Glenfinnan monument From thee monument, I cross the road and pass the visitor’s centre and café – all seems pretty closed (probably still too early in the season? and until the steam train is running again 4.4.). Through the carpark and then the railway viaduct – really quite impressive – and then I feel like I’m really on the way.
Glenfinnan railway viaduct Passing some last couple of houses, with garden full of daphodils. A reminder of the roadsides around Glasgow: were full of them, so beautiful; but I didn’t manage a good picture from the bus.
daphodils 
The paved road is slowly rising alongside the river, and is leading me almost all the way to the very first bothy: Coire Thollaidh Bothy, also called Corryhully.
Corryhully Then the 4-wheel-drive tracks rise steeper up the sidevalley, before it transforms into just a faint single path. There is also the first unbridged rivercrossings, but with my hiking poles for balance, I manage to keep dry feet – for now. Reaching the ‘saddle’ – Bealach Allt n’ Chaoruinn, it flattens out and gets boggy… no way to keep feets dry here.
I pass the famous gate – no fence left, but presumably still marking the border between estates.
gate at Bealach Allt n’ Chaoruinn And then slowly make my way down. It’s not steep, but slippery mud in some places; and I constantly have to look out for the best line to walk… the path being only very faint and unclear.
Halfway down I take a lunchbreak, air out my wet feet. And suddenly feel I’m immersed in Star Wars, as 4 fighter jets pass superlow and superloud through the valley.
Crossing over to the east side of the river before it becomes real canyon-like, I continue further down, where I meet another river (with a bridge) and the gravel road through the forest plantation.
Strathan farm 
Glendessary woods Following that road, and passing Strathan and Glendessary farms only in the distance, and meeting one friendly biker, I get to A’Chuil Bothy quite quickly – despite the backback starting to feel real heavy. I have a chat with a guy and his two curious dogs, and a look into the bothy, but decide to press on for a little bit more.
A’Chuil bothy I set up my tent at an open river bend, just near the path. Three more hikers pass by, bringing the total of people met today (after leaving the tourists at the viaduct) to 5.
campsite and bathing spot I have a short dip in the water, prepare dinner, and am asleep shortly after 8 o’clock.
Approx. 22,2 km today (totalling in 22,2 of 350km hiked towards the cape).
- CWT – day 00
Travel day
2022-03-21
I’m finally on my way!
And so exited – really looking forward to this adventure!
At the same time also a bit tense about the ambitious plan – will I be able to do it all? Will the weather be okay, what if there’s still more snow than anticipated? After having felt the weight of the food-filled backpack – will my knees hold and my strength be enough? And will it be all too lonely and too far from civilisation?
Anyway, I cannot do anything more than try, make the best of it, and see… That’s what I tell myself on the way to the airport. 😉
We’re starting out in beautiful sunshine and early spring temperatues…
somewhere over the snowy highlands of Norway 
somewhere over the green Scottish ‘lowlands’ …and arrive almost 20 minutes early in even more sunny and spring-like Edinburgh.
Luckily all special covid-travel-requirements have been lifted last Friday, and despite Brexit I’m welcomed into the country without further ado by very friendly border controll staff.
From there I take a bus to Glasgow, where I use the time until the connecting bus leaves, to buy a gas canister – and more food.
Glasgow The friendly lady at the outdoor shop, where I buy the gas canister, asks me very caringly – after me having anwered her question about where I’m going – if I have a good and warm sleeping bag. Yes, I do!!
And she also confirms: no midges to be expected at all this time of year. Pfew, one worry less! 😉
Then I hop on the bus to Fort William, where I’ll spend a last night of luxury in a hotel.
- CWT
The Plan
The last weeks I have been working on the planning of my next big adventure. After having looked at various locations around the mediterranean, I have finally – and perhaps surprisingly – landed on: Scotland!
I will attempt to hike the Cape Wrath Trail, UK’s «roughest trail»!
My starting point will be Glenfinnan – also known as the place with the railway viaduct to Hogwarts (from Harry Potter). From there the plan is to head generally north through the magical and mystical Scottish highlands. And – if weather, my body and the british military allow for it – end up at Cape Wrath, the north-westernmost mainland tip of the UK, about 370km and 14 days later.
According to guidebooks and the allknowing internet, april should be more-or-less snow- and midges-free; and also, april is statistically/supposedly one of the driest months in Scotland; so probably only raining every second day.
All in all -hopefully- perfect hiking conditions 😉
Wish me luck!
Below are the approximate stages I have planned for; but I’m sure it will all change, and I will end up setting up my tent whenever night falls, or my feet are to tired to carry on…
day 00 – travel day to start at Glenfinnan
day 01 – A´Chuil Bothy (19,3km)
day 02 – Barrisdale Bothy (25,2km)
day 03 – Kintail Lodge Hotel (29,2km)
day 04 – Maol Bhuide Bothy (26,0km)
day 05 – Coire Fionnaraich Bothy (26,7km)
day 06 – Kinlochewe Camp / Hotel (29,3km)
day 07 – Shenavall Bothy (26,9km)
day 08 – Ullapool: Hotel & resupply (19,0km)
day 09 – Schoolhouse Bothy (25,9km)
day 10 – camp at ‘path’s end’ (30,3km)
day 11 – Glencoul Bothy (22,3km)
day 12 – camp near Stack Lodge (24,7km)
day 13 – camp in Sandwood Bay (30,6km)
day 14 – Cape Wrath & back (22,2km)
day 15 – Old School House Hotel (13,0km)
day 16 – buffer day
day 17 – travel back home
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