From Refugio des Espuguettes to Héas (Camping Le Cairn)
22-07-12
I wake up around 6 or so to the bells and (panic-ing?) shouts of cattle. Then I turn around and sleep some more. In hindsight that was probably when the first hikers left and stirred up the sheep and cows, because when I finally have packed up and leave a bit after 9 o’clock, I’m almost the last hiker around.

But the hillside is still partly in shadow, and it makes for a nice climb up to the Hourquette d’ Alan (2430m asl).


Still rested and cool, I press right on down a semi-steep zigg-zagging path into the next valley, the beautiful Cirque d’ Estaubé.

Eventually the path flattens out as I reach the river. I have my first real break, cool my feet and eat, drink and rest.

Heading on the river gets nicer and nicer, with some polished stone ‘bathtubs’ (or ‘Gumpen’ as we call them back home ;). I regret having rested just earlier and not waited until here… might even have considered a swim. But now I consider (wrongly) it’s too soon after the last rest, so I just look and enjoy and take pictures, and hike on.

There is quite a lot of people around, obviously just having come up the short stretch from the parking lot to enjoy the cooler air and bathe in the river.
Before long I have reached and rounded the dammed lake of Lac des Gloriettes (also here the water level is really low), and stand in the parking lot.

From there it gets a bit tedious and boring down serpentines of asphalt road with the occational car passing me. I do get an offer to hop on one of the cars for a ride down, but politely decline. Even though it’s not the nicest part, I do want to hike the full stretch of the section I have chosen to hike.
Finally down at the main valley, I have another break near the road crossing in the shade of some trees by the river. Try to eats some more, but the heat is not doing any favours to my appetite. So I mostly just read and relax and wait for the sun to get a bit lower and the afternoon breeze to pick up a bit.


Then I tackle the last few kilometers on the road softly rising to Héas and the Auberge de la Munia.

Arrived there I first have a look at the lovely little church Chapelle Notre-Dame. Both altare background murial and stained glass windows depict the scenery around – very fitting.


I refresh at the fountain in front of the church, and the some more with a beer (another local, bio one – Py Toy) and a big caraffe of water in the shady garden of the Auberge’s restaurant.


After having watched several people feast on Crêpes, I can’t resist, and also have a ‘La Poudrée’ (which surprisingly(?) comes with normal crystalized sugar).
Then I check in at the auberge’s campsite ‘ le Cairn’, put up my tent, shower (!!!!), eat some more, and quickly fall asleep.
approx. 8,5h incl. more long breaks;
14,5km, 530m ascent, 1030m descent