From Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube to Gavarnie

^22-07-09

It’s another lovely sunny morning, and by the time I leave the tent almost all of the other 10-12 tents in the area are gone… early starters to reach the summit of Petit Vignemale I assume.

Anyway, for me it’s just passing by the refuge for a toilet break, and then slowly but steadily uphill on the clear serpentine path. Luckily it’s mostly in shadow for now!

I meet some sheep in the latest fashion haircut – an extreme undercut (or ‘Ola-uku’ as I like to call it 😉 Seems like the is an alltime favourite, I meet several similar ones over the next days.

Finally I reach Hourquette d’Ossoue (2734m) where all the ‘summiteers’ have left their big bags.

I just have a short break, then head on towards the Refuge de Bayssellance.

From the refuge it’s more steeply down, but still a good wide path. Have a stop to explore the Grottes Bellevue.

Then it’s more down down down and knee-aching down. Almost at the bottom there is first a slightly sketchy skrambing bit along the cliffs to the canyony river, that gave me a fright when seen from above but really is no problem; then there is 2 smaller snow fields to cross: supersoft, almost slippery wet, but also no problem.

down, down along the river Ruisseau des Oulettes

But after finally having reached the flats of the Barage d’ Ossoue, I’m done… the heat and the exertion of the past days is getting to me. I have a long late lunch break under the bridge – the only place there’s shadow!

under the bridge over the Ruisseau des Oulettes

Being refreshed from a foot bath in the cool river and fed, I press on; still about half of today’s distance to Gavarnie left (but luckily more flat). It’s a lovely winding path across pastures and past several Cabanes – but I can hardly enjoy it because I’m so tired.

pastures between Cabane de Lourdes and Cabane de Sausse Dessus

I have another break by another little river; consider a full swim (but can’t be asked.. too tired), so it’s just footbath, chocolate and watching butterflies for a while.

Then I press on once more.

And just when I start considering to put up my tent just here and now, I spot another hiker in front of me… so I motivate myself with a little catch-up game; and the thought of a cold coke/beer and internet in Gavarnie. But the trail is endless…

Finally I catch up with the nice french hiker and we chat while hiking down the last half an hour to Refuge Chalet La Grange de Holle. Then I continue alone another 20mins into Gavarnie, where I just reach the supermarket before closing at 8. Loaded up with my rewards: coke, fanta, beer AND chips – I finally make it to the campsite La Bergerie.