From Glenfinnan to Glen Dessary / past A’ Chuil bothy

2022-03-22

Early-ish start from Fort Williams. Weather seems lovely again!

Unfortunately I don’t have time to see more of the town, I need to run for the bus that’s replacing the steam train this week. And I am the only passenger on a big bus, no one else travelling this morning!

I couldn’t see anything of the surroundings yesterday evening, since I arrived after nightfall. But the distant views this morning reassure me – it seems there’s only some very few patches of snow left on the tops:

And the walk starts!

From thee monument, I cross the road and pass the visitor’s centre and café – all seems pretty closed (probably still too early in the season? and until the steam train is running again 4.4.). Through the carpark and then the railway viaduct – really quite impressive – and then I feel like I’m really on the way. 

Passing some last couple of houses, with garden full of daphodils. A reminder of the roadsides around Glasgow: were full of them, so beautiful; but I didn’t manage a good picture from the bus. 

The paved road is slowly rising alongside the river, and is leading me almost all the way to the very first bothy: Coire Thollaidh Bothy, also called Corryhully.

Then the 4-wheel-drive tracks rise steeper up the sidevalley, before it transforms into just a faint single path. There is also the first unbridged rivercrossings, but with my hiking poles for balance, I manage to keep dry feet – for now. Reaching the ‘saddle’ – Bealach Allt n’ Chaoruinn, it flattens out and gets boggy… no way to keep feets dry here.

I pass the famous gate – no fence left, but presumably still marking the border between estates. 

And then slowly make my way down. It’s not steep, but slippery mud in some places; and I constantly have to look out for the best line to walk… the path being only very faint and unclear.

Halfway down I take a lunchbreak, air out my wet feet. And suddenly feel I’m immersed in Star Wars, as 4 fighter jets pass superlow and superloud through the valley.

Crossing over to the east side of the river before it becomes real canyon-like, I continue further down, where I meet another river (with a bridge) and the gravel road through the forest plantation. 

Following that road, and passing Strathan and Glendessary farms only in the distance, and meeting one friendly biker, I get to A’Chuil Bothy quite quickly – despite the backback starting to feel real heavy. I have a chat with a guy and his two curious dogs, and a look into the bothy, but decide to press on for a little bit more. 

I set up my tent at an open river bend, just near the path. Three more hikers pass by, bringing the total of people met today (after leaving the tourists at the viaduct) to 5.

I have a short dip in the water, prepare dinner, and am asleep shortly after 8 o’clock.

Approx. 22,2 km today (totalling in 22,2 of 350km hiked towards the cape).

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